Collaret-sewing machine.



R. R. HUGHES, Jn. COLLAEET SEWING MACHINE. APPLIoATIoN FILED JULY 27, 1912.

' R. R. HUGHES, Jn. GOLLARET SEWING MAOHINE. i APPLIUATION FILED JULY 27, 1912. l 1 ,052,058, Patented Feb. 4, 1913.

4 SHE-ETS`SHEET 2.

. f l 5 F Z @d Il I 7 R. R. HUGHES, JR. COLLARET SEWING MAGHINB.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 27, 1912.

Patented Feb. 4, 1913.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

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ATTUHNEY ESSES:

R. R. HUGHES, JR. GOLLARET SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIUATION FILED JULY 27, 1912.

Patented Feb. 4, 1913.

4 SHEETS*SHEET 4.

UNITED STATES PATENT oEEroE.

ROBERT R. HUGHES, J' R., OF NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGN OR TO METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

i COLLARET-SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application led .Tuly 27, 1912. Serial No. 711,777.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ROBERT R.'HUGHEs, J r., a citizen 'of the United States, residing at Nyack, in the county of Rockland and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Im rovements in Collaret- Sewing Machines, o which the following is a specification. y

This invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly to an improved machine for stitching collarets or bindings to the necks of shirts or similar garments by means of which the width of the collaret or binding may be varied as occasion may require,

the objectof the invention being to provide a machine of this kind in which the ends of the collaret are tapered by trimming a portion from each edgel thereof in advance of and simultaneously with the stitching of the collaret to the garment.

In the present machine the width of the collaret or binding strip is varied by automatically trimming 0H the surplus raw edges of the top and bottom of the strip while the same is being fed by suitable feeding mechanism to the stitching mechanism, this being accomplished by the reciprocation of the trimming mechanism and the binding mechanism relatively to each' other, in the resent instance by moving the binding at achment to and from the trimming mechanism in a peculiar manner whereby the result sought is obtained'. Heretofore in order to make this tapered collaret finish it was necessary to cut the collaret into narrow strips and then taper them on each end with scissors, each strip representing the length of a shirt neck. Then the strip was folded in the center and the neck of the garment inserted between the edges of thewidth and long lengths thereof are wound on a roll of sultable size, which roll will be supported by some suitable means, as a reel, not shown, and provided with any suitable tension means. The end of the collaret is then passed through the binder provided for that purpose, to the stitching mechanism, being fed thereto by some suitable feed mechanism, preferably of the diHerent-ial type, so that the neck of the garment may be fed into the collaret or binding as desired by regulating the movement of the differential feed. Between the binder guide and the `stitching mechanism is located a suitable trimming mechanism and by the operation automatically of the binder guide and the trimming mechanism relatively one to the other, in the present instance the binder guide, the collaret will be properly tapered in the manner about to be described. From this it will be seen that the operation of stitching tapered collarets in the present improvement is greatly simplified, as the operator has simply to handle the shirt or garment so that the neck of the garment will be fed through the binder in the usual manner.

In a general way the present improvement consistsof guiding mechanism for feeding the collaret or binding strip to the sewing mechanism and mechanism for trimming the two edges of the strip so that t-hewidth of the collaret may be varied, together with means for shifting one of said mechanisms relatively to the other, in the present instance the guidinvr mechanism, and in such a way as to make die taper of the collaret the same at each end thereof.

In the drawings accompanying and forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a front view of this improved machine; Fig. 2 is a left hand end view of Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a plan view of Fig. 1, with the overhanging arm in section taken on line 3 3, Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the attachment removed from the machine; Fig. 5 is a detail view of the actuating means for operating the trimmer knives; Fig. 6 is a detail view of the binder and the means for carrying the same; Fig. 7 is a detail view of a part of the binder mechanism shown in Fig. 6 and Aa part of the trimming mechanism; Fig. 8 is a view of the cam for shifting the binder; -Fig 9 is a view In the present improvement the bed of the machine 1 has the usual goose-neck or over-' hanging arm 2, the overhanging portion 3 of which arm carries the usual presser foot bar 4 and needle bar 5 carrying twin needles. This bar-5 is reciprocated in the usual man-y ner by means of a link 6 connected with the' needle lever 7 pivoted at 8 to the arm 2 andf operatively connected in the usual manner to the main driving shaft 10, which latter isl provided with suitable mechanism to oper-V ate the stitching and feeding mechanismv of that type which it may be desired to use.- When the collaret is to be stitched to the garment by al suitable covering stitch thismay be obtained by providing two fingers 13, each carrying a thread that operates infront of the two needles 14, which coperate` with a suitable looper 15 that connects its thread with the two needle threads to make the covering stitch on the bottom, while the cross finger threads produce the stitch ony the top as shown very clearly at 16, Fig. 3Q Secured to the bed 1 by suitable screws is a bracket 17, which has two uprights 19 and 20 which support the top and bottom: trimmer shafts 21 and 22. Secured to the: trimmer shaft 21 is a quadrant gear 23 in' mesh with a similar gear 24 secured to the companion shaft 22, and which gear 24 is provided with a dependent arm 25 pivotally connected to the forked end 26 of ay connecting link or rod 27 actuated by an eccentric 28, Fig. 3, secured to the main driving shaft 10. By this means the proper cutting action is given to the knives. shafts 21 and 22 have secured thereon the any suitable manner.

latter fit in grooves 41 and 42 of an .extension 43 of the upright 19 of the bracket 17. These ledger blades are held in position by a clamp plate 44 and screw 45. Thus it will be seen that as the main shaft 10 rotates it will, by means of the eccentric 28 secured The;

noaaoaa shafts 21 and 22 by means of the quadrant gears, to rock the knife levers 29 and .30 and so cause the knives to coperate w1th the ledger blades and edect a shearing cut, which will sever the edges of the top and bottom ply of the collaret strip indicated by 50 and 51 respectively. See Fig. 7.

Any suitable form of right angle binder may be used according to the work to be done. In the present'instance this binder head or guide 77 is of the well known right angle construction, consisting of a core and a shell provided with a space between the two for the passage of the strip 78, see Fig. 3. This binder head is carried by a fiat extension 76 formed at the end of a slide bar 70, see Fig. 6. To shift the binder head to and from the needle line I provide a yoke 52 attached to the needle lever hub at 53, see Figs. 1 and 2, which yoke is formed to re ceive a T-shaped sliding block 55, which.

has connected thereto by a shoulder-screw 56 a lever 57 that is pivotally connected by means of a shoulder-screw 60 with a swing'- ing or rocking plate 58 suitably supported on the bracket 17. Secured to the lever-57 is a connecting link 61 which may be connected at its end, not shown, by a suitable bell crank with a chain and oor treadle whereby the foot of the operator can be used to shift the link 61 in the direct-ion of the arrow,x see Fig. 1, so as to force the lever 57 to the dotted line position 51, in which position the lever 57 will have a movement corresponding with the needle lever 7 so as to give a reciprocating movement to t-he swinging plate 58. When, however, this lever 57 is in the full line posit-ion shown in Fig. 1 its connection 56, it will be observed, is in a dead center position relatively to fthe needle lever stud 59 and consequently it will have no movement and therefore no movement is imparted to the swinging lor rocking plate 58, but when this lever 57 has been shifted as hereinbefore described to the dotted lineposition Fig. 1 it will then move with the needle lever and so shift the swinging plate 58. This plate is provided with a pawl 62 having a spring 63 coperating therewith to maintain it in engagement with the teeth of a ratchet wheel 64. Secured to this ratchet wheel by screws, the ratchet wheel being suitably supported in juxtaposition to the swinging plate, is a cam plate 67 provided with a groove 68 in which operates a roller stud 69 secured to the end of the slide bar 70 hereinbefore referred to. This slide bar is provided with two elongated slots 71 and 72, see Fig. 6, by means of which and suitable shoulderscrews 74, 75, this bar is secured to a part of the bracket 17 for sliding movement,

whereby as this bar is reciprocated backl and forth it shifts the binder head 77 hereinbefore referred to toward Aand from thedw" trimming mechanism in a manner which will be readily understood. Secured to this slide bar 70 is a trip device 79. This trip member coperates with a lever 81 secured to an upright shaft 82 suitably supported by an upright bracket 84 carried by the bracket 17, this shaft being held in one position by a spring 85, the hooked end 86 of which engages a lever 87 secured to the shaft 82. The end of this'lever 87 is provided with a catch 88 in position to cooperate with a catch piece or block 90 secured to the lever 57. As the' lever.57 is shifted 'to the dotted line position shown in Fig. 1 the spring 85 causes the catch 88 of the arm 87 to engage the catch block 90 and so hold the link 57 in such dotted line position, at which time the swinging or rocking plate 58 is caused to oscillate and thereby, through the medium of the pawl 62, to rotate the ratchet wheel 64 one tooth for each revolution of the sewing machine, that is to say each tooth of the ratchet wheel represents a complete cycle of the, sewing mechanism equal to a stitch irre-i spective of its length. In other words, the

feed may have a throw of one-eighth of an inchwhile the space bet-Ween the ratchet teeth may be three-sixteenths of an inch,

or vice versa; so that it will be understood that while the ratchet mechanism is entirely independent of the stitching and feeding mechanism yet it is so timed as to co'perate therewith at the proper time.

The operation of the machine is as follows: lVhen the operator starts the machine he simultaneously shifts the link 61 by the means which mav be provided for that purpose, and' thereby shifts t-he lever 57 to its dotted line position shown in Fig. 1, so that the catch 88 carried by the arm 87 will engage the catch block 90 o-f the lever 57 and hold the lever 57 in its operative position. In this position of the lever 57 the movei'nent of the needle lever 7 oscillatcs or reciprocatesthe swinging plate 58, which actuates the pawl (S2 to shift the ratchet wheel tooth by tooth, and this rotates the cam (37 secured thereto. As the inclined I'ace 9? of the cam groove coperates with the roller G9.carried by the slide this slide moves to the left or near to the trimming mechanism and so causes a wider margin to be trimmed from the edgesy of t-he collaret. This margin gradually increases in width until the roller G9 reaches that portion of the cam groove indicated by 9i, whereupon the roller passes into the concentric portion 95 of such cam groove. At this time the hinder head or guide is atrest, and during which period a parallel" portion is trimmed from the collaret for a distance say of one inch. This is intended to leave a start and finish end and serves as a guide to the operator in starting the shirt neck. When the cam has been shifted around so that the groove at the point 96 reaches the roller 69 the operator immediately starts another shirt collaret strip gradually becomes less, while the collaret stitched tothe garment gradually becomes wider until the cam groove has reached the position shown in Fig. 4, at whiehtime the tripjdevice 79 engages the end of the lever 81 to rock such lever 81 and disengage the catch 88 from the block 90 ofv the lever V57, whereupon the spring 97 connected to this lever 57 returns said lever toits initial or full line position. At this time the binder head shifting mechanism remains at rest, which is after the taper has been produced on the starting end of the shirt neck and while the collaret is being stitched around the remaining portion of the shirt neck until a point is reached which is about an equal distance from the end corresponding to the taper which has been previously made, at which time the link 61 is again shifted by the operator so as to shift the lever 57 to its dotted line position, whereupon on the shifting ofMfthe binder head the operation of the binding mechanism is repeated to taper the opposite end of the collaret. p

vIt should be understood' that the taper trimmed on the collaret may be varied by regulating the stroke of the feed in any of the usual ways, as it will be obvious that if the stitch is lengthened the collaretstrip will have a. movement greater than the mechanism for shifting the binder head and so the taper will be longer, while onthe other hand, if the stitch be shortened the collaret will move slower, consequently producing a shorter taper. In other words, the length of taper may be varied from one inch to two inches or more. t is furthermore to be 'understood that the presentim,-

provement is not limited to an),7 particular form of cam groove, as it may be desirable c to have the lander head shifted three timesy tapered at that portion as well as t-he front ends thereof. able to have the edges scalloped, as for ladies wear, producing a very ornamental and sulistantial iinish, which would be ditlicult to produce in an v other manner. Various binder guides may be applied to this Then again it may be desiry automatic shifting attachment to handle a tlat strip of tape as well as the folded collaret shown in thc present instance. Of course it will be understood that when it is desired to stitch a parallel collaret to the garment, or one which has been previously shaped, this can be done by simply disengaging the trimming mechanism, and that the same mechanism may be used as a shiftable edge guide for various forms of Work where a uniform product is desired.

In practice it is sometimes desirable to inturn or fold the edges after the same have been properly trimmed and before they are stitched to the garment, and in the present improvement this may be obtained by forming-the presser footand throat plate in the manner shown in Figs'. 9 and l0, by Ameans of which after the edges of the collaret are trimmed in the manner hereinbefore delscribed they will be folded in bythe coperbetween ation of the presser foot and throat plate so that they may pass through the stitching mechanism in the form shown in Fig. 11. In'such case one needle may be removed.

It is to be understood, as hereinbefore stated, that binders of various sizes or kinds may -be used in connection with the means for shifting themand that the taper of the collaret maybe varied by regulating the speed at which the binder head is shiftedv relatively to thespeed of movement of the material fed to the stitching mechanism.

It will be observed that in the present im# provenient the trimming mechanism is in the form of aduplex trimming means so arranged that the cutting knives are located the binder head `and the needles, so that the paths oftravel of the two edges of such strip or binder will pass between the top and bottom cutters of each set and con-A sequently a portion of the collaret edges will be trimmed therefrom always to present a smooth edge of the collaret strip to the stitching mechanism.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and means for automatically and continuously moving during a predetermined time the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of thev strip at one time than at another.

2. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means fortrimming sch strip, and means operated by the needle actuating lever for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of the strip at one time than at another.

3. Ina sewing machine having stitching and feeding, mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, vmeans for'moving the guiding means and trimming relatively one tothe imanes other thereby to trim a greater portion of the strip at one .time than at another, and means for automatically throwing such moving means out of operation at a predetermined time.

4. In av sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination ofmeans for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and automatically operated cam operated means for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of l the strip at one time than at another.

5. 4In a sewing machine having stitch-` ing and feeding mechanism, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, cam-operated means for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of the strip at one time than at another, and means Jfor throwing said cam operated means automatically out of operatic-n at a predetermined time.

6. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and cam operated means connected with said needle actuating lever for moving the guiding means and trimming 4means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of the strip at one time than at another.

7. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, cam operated means connect-ed with said needle actuating lever for moving the' .guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greaterportion of the strip at one time than at another, and means for automatically throwing said cam operated means out of operation at a predetermined time.

8. In a sewing machinehaving stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and means connected with one lof said mechanisms for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively'one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of the relatively one to the other'thereby to trim a greater portion of the strip at one time than at another.

10. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming A such strip,'cam operated means connected to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of the strip at one time than at another.

12. In a sewing machine having st-itching mechanism and feeding mechanism, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and cam operated means connected with the stitching mechanism for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of the strip at one time than at another.

13. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism. and feeding mechanism, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, cam operated means connected with the stitching mechanism for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to vthe other thereby to-trim a greater portion of the strip at. one time than at another, means for throwing said cam operatedmeans'automatically out of action at a predetermined time, and means for throwing it into action at another time. l l

14. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and means for so moving continuously during a predetermined time the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other as to trim a tapered portion from the strip at one time.

l5. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, thecombination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimmingl such strip, and means for so moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to -trim taperedportions from the strip at differenttimes to leave the strip yand feeding mechanisms, the combination for controlling the action of the said moving mechanism, means for trimming such with tapered parts extending in opposite directions.

16. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination v of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, means for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one t'o the other thereby to trim a tapered portion ofmaterial from the strip, said means for moving the guiding means, according to the length of the stitch, regulating the amount of taper. 17. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip,

and means for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively 'one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion of Vthe strip at one time than at another, said trimming means being located between the guiding means and the stitching mechanism. 18. In a sewing machine having stitching of means for guiding a strip to the stitching lmechanism, means for trimming such strip, :means for moving the guidlng meansand trlmming means relatively'one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion y of the strip at one time than at another, said trim-- ming mechanism being located between the guiding means and the stitching mechanism, and means under the control of the operator ing means.

19. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means forguiding a strip to the stitchstrip, means for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby .to trim a greater portion of lthe strip at one time than at another, and

means for infolding the edge of the strip prior tothe stitching thereof.

20. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of a strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the work, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of t-he strip simultaneously, and means for shifting the trimming means and the guiding means one relatively to the other thereby to vary the edges trimmed from the strip. 12o

21. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of a strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the work, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, means for so shifting. the trimming means and the guiding means one relatively to the other as to trim tapered portions from the edges of the strip at different times with such 130 portions tapered in opposite directions, and means for infolding both edges of the strip prior to the stitching thereof.

22. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of a strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the work, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, means for so shifting the trimming means and the guiding means one relatively to the other as to trim tapered portions from the edges of the strip at diiferent times with such portions tapered in opposite directions, and means for throwing the shifting means into and out olf operation.

23. In a sewing machine having stitching andy feeding mechanisms, the combination of a strip guiding means for feeding a bindingstrip in parallel layers to the work, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges ofthe strip simultaneously, and means connected with on e of said mechanisms for "shifting the trimming means and the guid- =ing means one relatively to the other there- 'byto vary the edges trimmed from the strip. l

24. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of a strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the work, duplex trimming means for trimming b oth edges of the strip simultaneously, and cam operated means for shifting the guiding means. relatively to the trimming means thereby to vary the amount trimmed from the edges of the strip.

'25. In a sewing machine having stitching and -feeding mechanisms, the combination of 'means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimmingsuch strip,

and automatically operative means for so shifting the guiding means toward and from the trimming means as to trim tapered portions from the strip at different times.

26. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and power driven cam operated means for so shifting the guiding means toward and from the trimming means as to trim a greater portion from the strip at one time than at another.

27. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and automatically operative cam operated means connected with one of said mechanisms for so shifting the guiding means toward and from the trimming means as to vary the portions trimmed from the strip at different times.

28. In a sewing machine having stitching intense mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, and cam means connected with and operated by the needle actuating lever for moving the guiding means toward and from the trimming means thereby to trim a greater portion from the strip at one time than at another.

29. In a sewing machine having stitching vand feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, means for shifting the guiding means to and from the trimming means thereby to trim a greater portion from the strip at one time than at another, and means for infolding the edge of the strip prior to the stitching thereof.

30. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of means for guiding a strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming both edges of the strip, .and cam operated means connected with one of said mechanisms for shifting the guiding means toward and from the trimming means thereby to trim tapered port-ions from the strip at diferent times with such tapered portions extending in opposite directions.

31. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, cam means for shifting the guiding means relatively to the trimming means thereby to vary the amount trimmed from the 'edges of the strip, and ratchet mechanism for operating said cam means.

32. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, cam means for shifting the guiding means relatively to the trimming means thereby to vary the amount trimmed fro-m the edges of the strip, ratchet mechanism for operating said cam means, and means connected with the stitching mechanism for operating said ratchet mechanism.

33. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, cam means for shifting the guiding means relatively to the trimming means thereby to vary the amount trimmed fromthe edges of the strip, ratchet mechanism forl operating said cam means, means connected with the stitching mechanism for operating said ratchet mechanism, and means for throwing said cam means into and out of operation.

34. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms, the combination of strip guidin means for feeding a binding strip in para lel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges ofthe strip simultaneously, cam means for shifting the guiding means relatively to the trimming means thereby to vary the amount trimmed from the edges of the strip, ratchet mechanism for operating said cam means, means connected with the stitching mechanism for operating said ratchet mechanism, means for automatically throwing said cam means out of operation, and means under the control of the operator for throwing the cam means into operation.

35. In a sewing machine havingstitching mechanism, including a needle actuating lever, and feeding mechanism, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means, a cam for reciprocating saidbar toward and from the trimming means, and means connected with the needle actuating lever for rotating said cam.

36. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism, including a needle actuating lever, and feeding mechanism, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means, a cam for reciprocating said bar toward and from the trimming means, and means connected with the needle actuating lever for rotating said cam and including ratchet mechanism. l

37. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the lcombination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means, a cam for reciprocating said bar toward and from the trimming means, means connected with the needle actuating lever for rotating said cam, and means .for infolding both edges of the strip prior to the stitching thereof.

38. In a sewing machine having stitchingy mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feedin mechanism, the combina'- tion of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for 'trimming both edges of the strip simultaneing means, a cam for reciprocating' said bar toward and from the trimming means, means connected with the needle actuating lever for rotating said cam, means for automatically throwing said cam out of operation, and means for throwing 1t into operation.

39. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism, including a needle actuating lever, and feeding mechanism, the com bination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanismduplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means, a cam for reciprocating said bar toward and from the trimming means, means including ratchet mechanism and a lever connected with the needle actuating lever for rotating said cam, and means for holding said first lever in its operative position and automatically operated by the sliding bar for releasing said lever thereby to stop the movement of said bar. Y

40. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of strip guidin means for feeding a binding strip in para lel layers :to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means, a cam for reciprocating said bar toward and from the trimming means, means for rotating said cam and including a lever having a pivotal sliding .connection withthe needle actuating lever whereby' in one position the cam is maintained idle and in another position it is rotated, means for.

throwing said lever into its operative position, and automatically operated means for.

throwing said lever into its inoperative position.

41. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means, a cam for reciprocating said bar-toward and from the trimming means, means for rotating said cam and including a lever having a pivotal sliding connection with the needle actuating lever whereby in one position the cam is maintained-idle and in another position it is rotated, means for throwingl said lever into its operative posimechanism and feeding mechanism, the combination of a strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously and comprising a pair of fixed blades and a pair of oscillating blades, shafts for supporting the latter, means for rocking said shafts, a sliding bar carrying said strip m guiding means, and cam operated means for reciprocating said bar toward and from the trimming means.' 43.` In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuatingr lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding st-rip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means located between the strip guiding means and the stitching mechanism for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously and comprising a pair of fixed blades and a pair of shiftable blades, a pair of shafts for carrying said shiftable blades, means for rocking said shafts, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means, a cam for reciprocating said bar toward and from the trimming means thereby to trim tapered portions from the strip, ratchet mechanism for rotating said cam, a lever connected to said ratchet mechanism and having a sliding pivotal connection with the needle actuating lever for operating said ratchet mechanism and thereby the cam, means for shifting said sliding pivotally connected lever into position relatively to the needle actuating lever thereby to throw the cam into operation, means for holding said lever in such position, and means operated by the sliding bar for automatically releasing said holding means thereby to stop the movement of the cam.

44. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever and feeding mechanism, the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism, duplex trimming means located between the strip guiding means and the stitching mechanism for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously and comprising a pair of fixed blades and a pair of shiftable blades, a pair of shafts for carrying said shift-able blades, means for rocking said shafts, a sliding bar carrying said strip 55, guiding means, a cam for reciprocating said bar toward and from the trimming means thereby to trim tapered portions from the strip, ratchet mechanism for rotating said cam, a lever connected to said ratchet mech- 60. anism and having a sliding pivotal connection with the needle actuating lever for operating said ratchet mechanism and thereby the cam, means for shifting said sliding pivotally connected leverinto position relatively to the needle. actuating lever thereby to throw the cam into operation, means for holding said lever in such position, means operated by the sliding bar for automatically releasing said holding means thereby lto stop the movement of the caln, and means for infolding bot-h edgesof the strip prior to the stitching thereof.

45. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism including a needle actuating lever, feeding mechanism, a throat plate and a presser foot, the combination of strip guiding-means for lfeeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the stitching mechanism,

4duplex trimming means located between the strip guiding means and the stitching mech- `anism for trimming both edges of the strip simultaneously and comprising a pair of fixed blades and a pair'ofshiftable blades, a pair of shafts for carryingl said shiftable 'l blades, means for rocking said shafts, a sliding bar carrying said strip guiding means,

a cam for reciprocating said bar toward and from Athe trimming' means thereby to trim tapered portions from the strip, ratchet mechanisni .for rotating said cam, a lever connected to said ratchet mechanism `and havingua sliding pivotal connection with the needle actuating lever for operating said ratchet mechanism and thereby the cam, means for shifting said sliding pivotally connected lever into position relatively to the needle actuating lever thereby to throw the cam into operation, means for holding said lever in such position, means operated by the sliding bar for automatically releasing said holding means thereby to stop the movement of the cam, and means carried by th-e presser foot and throat plate for infolding both edges of the strip after the trimming thereof.

46. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a throat plate and a presser foot, the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means fortrimming such strip, means for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion from the strip at one time than at another, and means carried by the presser foot and throat platev for infolding the so trimmed edge.

47. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a throat plate and a presser foot, the combination of means for guiding a strip in parallel layers.

to the stitching mechanism, means for trimming such strip, means for moving the guiding means and trimming means relatively one to the other thereby to trim a greater portion from the strip at one time than at another, and means carried by the presser foot and throat plate forA infolding both of such trimmed edges.

48. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms the combination of means for guiding a strip to the stitching mechanism, means for automatically moving the guiding means relatively to the path of stitching, and means for folding the edge of the strip prior to the stitching thereof.

4:9. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms the combination of shiftable means for guiding the strip to the 4 stitching mechanism, means connected with the stitching mechanism for automatically shifting the strip guiding means to and fro relatively to the line of stitching, and means for infolding the edges of the strip prior to the stitching thereof.

50. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms thevcombination of shiftable means for guiding the strip to the stitching mechanism, means for automatically shifting the strip guiding means to and fro relatively to the line of stitching, means for infolding the edges of the strip prior to the stitching thereof, and means for automatically throwing said strip guiding means out of action at a predetermined time..

51. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms the combination of a strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip in parallel layers to the work, means for automatically shifting the guiding means relatively to the line of stitching, and means for infolding both edges of the strip prior to the stitching thereof.

52. In a sewing machine having stitching and feeding mechanisms the combination of strip guiding means for feeding a binding strip to the work, means for automatically shifting said guiding means relatively to the line of stitching, and means for automatically throwing said strip guiding means out of action at a predetermined time.

Signed at Nyack, in the county of Rockland `and State of New York, this 24th day of July, 1912.

ROBERT R. HUGHES, JR.

Witnesses:

EDWARD L. RUSSELL, JOHN P. Wars.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ive cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of IE'atents,

Washington, D. C. 

